If the old Oceana was like a luxurious little yacht whose small but devoted staff hovered lovingly while you indulged in elegant food, the new one is much closer to a stately liner. You almost expect to look up and find the captain entertaining privileged passengers in that glassed-in private room that sits smack in the middle of the vast restaurant. But while the ambiance may be different, the chef (and his food) remains the same: Ben Pollinger’s seafood-focused menu offers clear flavors and innovative ideas. The fish at the entrance sparkles on its bed of ice. The raw bar lures you to one of the stools. You can have all this pristine fish plain, but you could also opt for a gorgeous tartare of fluke spangled with bits of mango and strips of young coconut. Side dishes range far beyond the usual suspects, offering okra, eggplant, and the like. In a clear bid to appeal to both lunchtime and pre-theater diners, there is even a choice of burgers (salmon or beef). Portions are large, but it’s hard to resist dessert when it includes a doughnut platter whose starring player is a little number filled with salted caramel. 1221 Avenue of the Americas (212-759-5941; oceanarestaurant.com) —Ruth Reichl